If you look at a map of the Abacos you will see why this archipelago is my idea of the Bahamas… Two large islands protected by a string of barrier cays, all of which are less than a half a day’s sail from one another. And we have been sailing, too, with nice winds and generally calm seas. We ping-ponged northward between Great Abaco Island & the barrier cays and are now waiting for our chance to get through the Whale Cut to the northern Abacos.
Tilloo Bank and Cay
Our first anchorage after leaving Little Harbour… Tilloo Bank is a large, shallow bank where the locals come and beach their boats to “tailgate”. There is a single habitable house on the cay, all the rest still badly damaged from the hurricane. Tilloo Bank sits on the edge of the Pelican Cays Land and Sea Park so we returned here after visiting Sandy Cay. Sandy Cay may have the famous “coral garden” and may be one of the best spots for snorkeling but it is not a comfortable anchorage…
This is the other side of Tilloo Cay! You will see this theme with all the barrier cays; the Sea of Abaco side has had almost no swell while the Atlantic side has been roiling.
Scars from Dorian are everywhere… this would have been the view from the house in which we stood to take this photo.
Residents of Tilloo Cay and Tilloo Bank
Elbow Cay and Hope Town
Did someone move Oaks Bluff or Edgartown to the Bahamas while we have been gone??? Aside from the hurricane damage, you could be confused about where you are…
Kerosene is burned to create the light and the lens rotation is achieved by hand-cranking a weight up the tower, every evening. The actual lens of the lighthouse floats in a bed of mercury!
Hope Town is much further along than Marsh Harbour in erasing the traces of Dorian but not quite finished… Most of the rental properties seem to have been full, both restaurants were open and the grocery store had full shelves and fresh baked goods every day.
Spectacular White Sound Beach on the Atlantic side of Elbow Cay; the ocean laid down for Mother’s Day and we finally got to swim in the Atlantic.
Black Point Cay
We anchored at Black Point Cay after another visit to Sandy Cay. Black Point is on the Great Abaco Island side of the bight. No signs of habitation here yet but still crystal waters and interesting coral formations in the little bay.
Man O’War Cay
Man O’ War (MOW to the locals) was once the boat building heart of the Bahamas and it is still home to Albury Brothers, a boat building dynasty. We were fortunate to have spent an hour or so with the proprietess of the local cafe who manages the little MOW museum and serves delectable mulberry turnovers. She confirmed our perceptions of MOW; it is a tight, residential community, insulated from the tourism upon which the other cays rely.
Great Guana Cay
Great Guana’s claim to fame are the beach bars – Grabber’s and Nipper’s, both of which we visited. Of the two, Nipper’s had the better location with the Atlantic beach… and the radler.
